STAGE 7 (Day 9): Creches-sur-Saône to Tournon-sur-Rhône

Cycling the Saône then riding the Rhône

Distance:    106 miles

Climb:        755 feet  

Lyon, the third largest city in France, marks today's halfway point and where two rivers meet: the Saône and the Rhône. 

But none of the bright lights of Lyon for us. We’re heading for Tournon-sur-Rhône: a pretty petit riverside village with a castle, a church and a port.

FUN FACT: Lyon is home to Guignol, France's most famous puppet character. Created by puppeteer Laurent Mourguet of Lyons in the early 19th century, the hand puppet was supposedly named after a Lyonnais silk worker. Guignol performed with regional dialect and mannerisms, dressed in traditional peasant garb. Perpetually surprised, he was easily duped but quick to extricate himself and his drinking companions from trouble. Though sometimes approximating a Lyonnais version of the Punch-and-Judy show, Guignol usually appeared alongside his wife, Madelon, and his companion, Gnafron.

DAILY DEBRIEF

It being Sunday here’s some religious knowledge for you. It is a little-known fact that Jesus was a keen cyclist. His oft misquoted statement, “blessed are the pacemakers” is seen by many biblical scholars as a clear reference to the son of man’s keenness for two wheels.

Thanking our lucky stars that yesterday’s rest day monsoon had passed and a new weather system was blessing our departure, we set off with renewed vigour.

Fortunately, Jacqui and Paul were able to extricate the campervan from the now less muddy spot it had been parked in during a deluge. Jacqui‘s luck continued as she was able to benefit from Richard’s early departure by eating his pre-ordered breakfast.

With early morning anglers worshipping at the riverbank and the sun working hard to break through the clouds, our early miles were for the first time in many days ridden without sleeves or gilets. A sure sign that we’re now firmly in the south.

Cranes were the predominant bird for this part of our journey and we enjoyed watching them scanning the river and then plonking down on their well-constructed nests.

It being Sunday, many more people were out along the paths and small country roads on our route: Cyclists, joggers and yet more anglers, as well as an increasing amount of river traffic including practising rowing teams.

Our early morning chat included hopes that we would find more opportunities for caffeinated refreshment along this busier stretch of water. In due course our hopes were realised when we came upon a bespoke café specifically aimed at Veloists. The shabby chic of the cafe was unfortunately not matched by the quality of the coffee, but a good time was had by all.

Our route today took us through Lyon, France’s second largest city by population, situated in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Lyon is also the confluence of the Saône and Rhône rivers and has even dedicated a museum to this particular naturally occurring phenomenon. We did not visit. Reprising our Metropolitan cycling skills from London we navigated the centre of this bustling city.

They were plenty of cycleways all well marked but also plenty of not so well ridden. By this time we were in no doubt that the weather had changed for the dryer and warmer.

Lyon is also a very busy city for traffic, as our support crew found out when they were delayed in their arrival at the designated lunch meeting spot. Taking an executive decision the riders decided to push on for a few more miles and a rearranged lunch meet-up took place. Following a height restriction U-turn for the support crew, lunch was served in the glamorous ambiance of the car park of a closed Lidl.

The added bonus of the new rendezvous was that the psychologically important halfway mark of the day’s ride had passed by the time we lunched.

With our route today moving steadily downhill, we continued to make good progress as the warmth of the day increased. The river was being well used along its course with many small craft floating up and down, as well as the ever present anglers.

We paused at around the 80-mile mark dipping off the route to St Pierre de Boeuf (who he had a beef with was not revealed) for coffee and Coca-Cola (other such beverages are available). Richard was especially pleased as the patron of the restaurant thought he was a Belgian when they chatted. Let’s be clear that is a Walloon not a Fleming.

Setting off again for the last 25 miles of the ride, Paul and Richard, aided by the gentle downhill and finally the absence of a headwind, were able to spin towards the finish line.

Sometimes a little diversion from the planned route can result in a happy surprise. Today was one of those. A slight deviation took us through orchards of trees laden with ready-to-eat vibrantly coloured cherries. Both Paul and Richard availed themselves of the low-hanging fruit in the sure knowledge that the farmer would already have been generously subsidised anyway. Nevertheless, a pick-up truck approaching along the lane between the trees resulted in both swallowing cherry stones in a subconscious attempt to hide the evidence of scrumping.

With Tournon-sur-Rhône at the end of the orchards we arrived in town feeling pretty good considering we had just ridden for 106 miles. Jacqui excitedly informed Paul that there was a Moto Fédération Française (biker) festival in the town Square as Richard pedalled on through the leather clad hog riders to get to his hotel.

All in all not a bad Sunday spin. Now to just do it all again tomorrow.

A reminder of why we're doing this

Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care provides FREE services and support to ensure patients and families living with an advanced or terminal illness can make the most of their lives…because every day is precious!

Each penny or cent pledged is donated to the hospice to help fund the very best in end-of-life care. See our JustGiving page.