STAGE 3 (Day 5): Soissons to Châlons-en-Champagne 

Bring on the bubbles

Distance:        78 miles

Climb:            3000 feet 

Moving time:   6hrs 21mins 

All the climbing is front-loaded today, before dropping into the Marne valley, following a canal, and the promise of passing the world's most prestigious Champagne houses en route. Our destination, Châlons-en-Champagne, is twinned with Ilkeston in Derbyshire.

 
FUN FACT: To quote a 1979 Monty Python film "What have the Romans ever done for us?" They were the first to plant vineyards in this area of northeast France. Nicknamed le vin du diable (the devil's wine), Champagne was discovered by mistake and, for many years, winemakers tried to remove and prevent the bubbles from forming.  

DAILY DEBRIEF

It’s not every Monday that you end up mid-afternoon in the heart of the Champagne region of France. It just so happens that for us it was this Monday.

Rendezvousing in yet another car park like doggers who can’t tell the time, we set out on the third stage of our French Odyssey.

Just as with the receptionist at Camping Velodrome, Richard and Teresa‘s host at the Fast Hotel could not have been more helpful, especially letting them sneak into breakfast early.

Leaving Soissons we knew that there was a degree of front-ended climbing to be dealt with, although nothing compared to the climbing our friends Steve and Georgie did in Chamonix over the last few days. What we did not know is that the Soissons suburbs appear to be developing some form of olfactory weapon. We experienced the full force of “le whiff” as we wended our way through the zone industriale.

Noses and eyes in shock we were almost relieved to have our attention distracted by the first of a series of bumps. With hills being Paul’s catnip, he was in his element. Once out into rolling countryside, we passed through pretty villages and along fields of wheat. Paul even had time to spot a kestrel and a green woodpecker.

We had arranged an early meet with the support crew (in another car park) at Chateau de Fère-en-Tardenois, a very attractive 10th-century ruin. After a quick tour and some photos, we were back on the road moving through tree-lined countryside with sandy soil not unlike the Brecklands in England. We also got to make another addition to our eye-spy book of French nature when a lively deer jumped across the path in front of us.

Almost by surprise, we came upon a sign announcing our arrival in the Champagne region, although it took a little bit further before we saw the vineyards. Arriving in Vincelles there were vines as far as the eye could see. Added to this wondrous vista was a vertiginous descent into the town. Paul expressed some doubt as to whether his rim(s) could take it.

The route included an innocuously labelled viewpoint (yet another car park), but if you want a view over a valley, then you have to get up to it. Despite being a bit of a lung buster to reach, it was well worth the effort. Not only was lunch waiting for us, but also a swathe of vineyards running either side of the valley.

After a fun chat with a couple of (much younger) Dutch tourists who had floated up the hill to the belevedere, we set off back down to Épernay – the epicentre of Champagne. Cycling along the Avenue de Champagne, we passed all the major producers and doffed our caps to the statue of Dom Pérignon.

From Éperney, we were soon back to very pleasant riding along the canal trail, the surface of which would put much of Surrey and Hampshire’s roads to shame.

We were now on the homestretch to Châlons-en-Champagne and trying to stick to our agreed pace. At a certain point on the route we overtook a gentleman cycling alone who then joined our small but perfectly formed peloton for a couple of miles. When we stopped to refuel, our new team member also took a pause. He then demonstrated infinite patience as Richard attempted to converse with him, sounding probably not unlike one of his grandchildren.

 

We learnt that the spritely chap was called Michel and regularly cycled 50 miles there and back along the canal. This became more impressive when he told us he was 81 years old. He went on to say that he used to do 7-8000 kilometres a year, but since an illness he was down to 5-6,000km!

Contrary to the song, we did get a kick from Champagne. In the knowledge that tomorrow is a rest day, our legs experienced a final shot of adrenaline as we made our way to the reasonably priced hotel on a retail park that would be Richard and Teresa’s resting place for the next two nights.

Another 75+ miles in the bag and three stages complete.

In the words of noted Francophile Benjamin Franklin: “He that can take rest is greater than he that can take cities.”

A reminder of why we're doing this

Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care provides FREE services and support to ensure patients and families living with an advanced or terminal illness can make the most of their lives…because every day is precious!

Each penny or cent pledged is donated to the hospice to help fund the very best in end-of-life care. See our JustGiving page.