STAGE 2 (Day 4): Albert to Soissons

Saying goodbye to the Somme

Distance:        81 miles

Climb:            2700 feet  

Moving time:   6hrs 19mins

A day of lumpy start and finish, with mainly flat terrain in the middle.

FUN FACT: Soissons, St Crispin and Shakespeare. During the Hundred Years' War, French forces committed a notorious massacre of English archers stationed at the town's garrison, in which many French townsfolk were themselves killed. The massacre of French citizens by French soldiers shocked Europe; Henry V of England, noting the town of Soissons was dedicated to the saints Crispin and Crispinian, claimed to avenge the honour of the saints when he met French forces at the Battle of Agincourt on Saint Crispin's Day 1415. The famous St Crispin's Day speech is a part of William Shakespeare's history play Henry V. The town was liberated by French troops under the command of Joan of Arc in 1429.

DAILY DEBRIEF: Canals, cormorants and car park lunch

After a fine meal and comfortable night’s sleep at the aptly named Camping Velodrome, we set off on one of our shorter stages. We noticed that the first reaction of some older people to cyclists is to tell them to slow down, whether in the UK or France.

Our route took us back to the Lochnagar Crater, which we’d visited only a month before. According to Komoot there was a suitable track beyond the site: Although this may have been fine on gravel bikes, we did not wish to inflict further pain on nice road bikes.

So an early rerouting was required, resulting riding on a busier road. The occasional tailwind ensured that we continued to make good progress knocking off the first few climbs early in the ride.

Soon we dropped down onto a canal path which offered the opportunity to sample a variety of surfaces. French canals appear to have been built in the mechanised era as they are at least four times as wide as a standard UK canal.

It being a Sunday there were many men escaping domestic duties under the guise of going fishing. Progress along the canal was somewhat hazardous due to the very long rods some of the anglers employed, but we managed to avoid any contact with water.

Although the canal was not particularly busy, we saw a few working boats as well as a floating hotel complete with its own bicycles. Our requests for a lift were not heeded.

Along the canal bank, we spotted a decent amount of birdlife, especially cormorants, herons and the ever-present ducks.

Paul told Richard about his father Tom‘s dream ahead of our ride commencing. Tom had a vision that Paul’s bike broke in two, necessitating a hasty top-of-the-range replacement purchase. Perhaps the dream will come true at the end of the ride, hopefully not during it.

Progress along the Canal du Nord was swift meaning that the support crew had to be particularly assiduous if they were to make the rendezvous point at the halfway stage. Luckily they’re professionals and we were greeted on time at the designated car park.

As with so many small French towns and villages it appeared that the population had been removed sometime ahead of our arrival – except for a solitary man attempting to remove weeds in what our support crew deemed an inefficient and haphazard manner.

The second half of our ride was enhanced as we rode into Noyon with its impressive cathedral. The great thing about impressive buildings is that they force you to stop for a while for a lingering look. This is particularly important for the more tender parts of the anatomy.

Back on the canal we took turns to ride at the front as the headwinds had returned. Despite both of us feeling a little jaded, we continued to count down the miles.

As with all great rides the more significant climbs are saved for the last few miles. A bit like returning home to Farnham from a pedal out almost anywhere. Paul’s climbing legs kicked in for the steady ascents that went on for a couple of miles. Meanwhile, gravity acted in its usual fashion upon Richard.

The reward for the climbs was a fantastic quick multi-bended descent that brought childlike glee.

Entering Soissons we located Richard’s hotel glamorously located in a slightly rundown retail park. Paul then proceeded to rendezvous with the campervan.

Another short ride tomorrow of around 80 miles – then we will certainly have earned our rest day.

A reminder of why we're doing this

Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care provides FREE services and support to ensure patients and families living with an advanced or terminal illness can make the most of their lives…because every day is precious!

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